Ichkabal

structure 1 platform base steve mellard

structures 10-11-12 steve mellard

structure 2 steve mellard

structure 7 steve mellard

structure 8 steve mellard

structure 5c upper temple steve mellard

structure 5a temple giovanni frassetto

strustures 12-11-10 giovanni frassetto

ichkabal site map inah

structure 5b temple steve mellard

structure 2 steve mellard

structure 4c inah

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TICHKABAL.

structure 4 inah

ICHKABAL, Quintana Roo, Mexico

DESCRIPTION
Ichkabal is considered by some archaeologists as one of the largest Maya Late Preclassic (300 BCE-250 CE) archaeological zones in Mexico. This time frame is contemporary with Nakbe and El Mirador in Guatemala. Its modern name means “within the lowlands” in Yucatek Maya. The original name has yet to be identified. The zone is located in the Bacalar ejido, in the municipality of the same name, formerly known as Othon P. Blanco.

The site features one main reservoir, several aguadas/seasonal reservoirs, and six architectural groups. The ceremonial/civic center and its environs encompasses an area of around 23 square miles/60 sq kms. The population of the area at its peak has been estimated at around 100,000 inhabitants. There is a sacbe/white stone road that connects the site to Dzibanche 10 miles/16 km to the west. Another sacbe leads to the lesser site of Mario Ancona to the East.

The structures are set on an axis about 7 degrees east of North, and show a strong influence of Peten-style architecture. Structures 1, 4, and 5 make up the original urban core area of the site. Excavations have revealed evidence of occupation into the early part of the 16th century.

Ichkabal is located 17.5 miles/28 km west of Bacalar as the toucan flies. Just north of Bacalar, take the turnoff from the Highway 307 west towards El Suspiro/Reforma. Travel around 11 miles/17.5 km and make a left onto a recently repaved road to the site (good signage). This delightful, winding road through the selva passes several mounds on its way 13 miles/21 km to the site. At the present time there is no parking lot. Park on the side of the road and walk to the main entrance.

HOURS: 8 AM-5PM daily
ENTRANCE FEE: $5.00/100 pesos, video cameras extra charge
GUIDES: inquire at service kiosk
SERVICES: Bathrooms, Service kiosk
ON-SITE MUSEUM: no, though infrastructure exists
ACCOMMODATIONS: numerous options in either Bacalar or Chetumal
GPS: 18d 41’08” North, 88d 40’00” West
MISC: Bring bug repellant, water, snacks

HISTORY AND EXPLORATION
Excavations at Ichkabal have determined that monumental architecture began during the Late Preclassic when most of the structures seen today were built. This early site is contemporary with other important sites such as Nakbe and El Mirador, and exhibits a similar Peten-style architecture. The Main Plaza was inhabited throughout the Classic Period (250-850 CE). Ceramic evidence reveals that the site supported a diminished population into the early 16th century.

To date, no glyphic texts or stelae have been located within the site core to help in identifying its rulers or social/political connections with other sites. INAH archaeologists suspect that the site may have been the original location of the Kaanu’l Dynasty later recorded at Dzibanche (c.400-c.631 CE) and Calakmul (c.631-c.736 CE), though all three sites had a Preclassic origin. Also important to note is that no hieroglyphic stairways have been identified so far at Ichkabal, though a possible ball court may have been discovered. Dzibanche has two known ballcourts, one displaying a recently uncovered Preclassic frieze, and at least one hieroglyphic stairway. More research at the site may help to understand the origins of the Kaanu’l Dynasty.

In the 1930’s archaeologist César Lizardi Ramos investigated the area following reports of a large city but was unable to locate Ichkabal. The site was rediscovered in 1994 when Alejandro Cano, owner of the "El Suspiro" ranch, reported the existence of ruins to INAH archaeologists Evelia Light Campaign and Javier López Camacho who were searching for the small site of Las Higueras reported on previously by Ramos.

Investigations and excavations were initiated by INAH archaeologists Enrique Nalda Hernández and Javier López Camacho in 1995. In 2017, the Comprehensive Project was carried out in the archaeological zone including a Lidar survey directed by Sandra B. Balanzario Granados, attached to CINAH-Quintana Roo. Investigations continue to this day.

STRUCTURES
There are two main plaza groups, the Main Plaza and the West Plaza, along with several elite residential compounds that constitute the urban area of Ichkabal. These groups and compounds are set on slightly raised ground and small, leveled hilltops.

The Main Plaza houses the most important structures in the archaeological zone, and mostly function in a civic/ceremonial capacity. The huge plaza area takes up nearly 17 acres/7 hectares (370 meters North-South x 200 meters East-West). During excavations archaeologists noted that many of the facades of the structures were dismantled during antiquity. Currently, visitors enter the site alongside a large rectangular reservoir.

The reservoir measures about 263 feet/80 meters by 197 feet/60 meters, and is known as Aguada de los Cocodrilos. The banks of the reservoir exhibit embedded stone that has protected against erosion to this day.

On the opposite side of the path are Structures 6 and 7. These are two multi-tiered temple platforms that have been partially excavated and restored. These structures date from the Early Classic (250-600 CE) and anchor the southeast corner of the Main Plaza.

Structure 7 is a low, three-tiered pyramidal platform dating from the Early Classic (250-600 CE). A central stairway leads up to a terrace that may have held a temple structure of perishable material or was dismantled in antiquity. The structure features Peten style architecture exhibiting sloping walls, inset corners, and stucco masks, now reburied for their protection.

An impressive cache of artifacts was excavated from the structure that included jadeite ear spools, ceramics, and objects of shell, obsidian and pyrite. A later platform was constructed at its base restricting access to the structure. The platform has steps on its north and south sides.

Structure 6 is a low, multi-tiered, range type platform structure. A restored central stairway leads up to a terrace that may have once held a temple constructed of perishable material. A circular monument, perhaps an altar, is situated in front of the structure.

The next structure encountered on the east side of the plaza is the impressive Structure 5 that rises to a height of 115 feet/35 meters. The basal platform base has not been excavated. A modern winding stairway leads up the basal platform to a large terrace. Two excavated, smaller temple platforms, Structures 5a and 5b, flank a large pyramid base forming a triadic layout.

Structures 5a and 5b each have a central stairway that leads up to a multi-chamber temple. The central structure, Structure 5c, is a large pyramid. A wide stairway rises to a broad summit terrace. A steep stairway then leads up to the large temple featuring a gallery. The temple isl fronted by a small terrace. Two construction phases have been noted by archaeologists that occurred during the Late Preclassic. The first phase exhibited rounded corners, sloping walls, and a central stairway flanked by stucco masks, typical of Peten-style architecture. The second phase displays sharply squared corners.

The stucco masks that were discovered here have, unfortunately, been reburied for protection from the elements. There is a stone mask that is observed at the base of the temple platform that flanks the stairway.

Numerous items have been recovered from structure 5 including ceramics, one with glyphic writing and another containing a mask. A ball court marker and mural remains were also uncovered.

Next to Structure 5 is the imposing Structure 4. This pyramid has a height of about 138 feet/42 meters, making it the same height as the fabulous Nohoch Mul pyramid at Coba, second only to the massive Structure 2 at Calakmul within the Yucatan Peninsula. It has a modern, central stairway that features 90 steps cut into the unexcavated mound up to the basal platform plaza. Two unexcavated mounds flank the central temple platform base much like the Structure 5 triadic arrangement. An additional 50 steps lead up the central pyramid to a summit terrace. It’s a long way up!

A large, multi-chamber temple crowns the summit terrace that is reached by a central stairway of a dozen steps or so. Stucco masks were also discovered here and reburied. Smaller side stairways are evident. An amazing feature is the large amount of thick, original stucco that still clings to the pyramid’s walls. The view atop the structure looks across the bajos (floodable forest plains) towards low hill ranges far in the distance. An awesome view!

The heavily overgrown northeast corner of the plaza is a bit unclear as to whether the large tree-covered mound seen there is an extension of Structure 4 as is shown on the site map. If so, the Structure 4 basal platform base is huge!

The northside of the Main Plaza displays 3 structures, Structures 10-12 all dating from the Late Preclassic with Structures 10 and 11 in use throughout the Classic Period (250-850 CE). The buildings have been partially excavated and restored.

Structures 10 is a 5-tiered platform construction situated in the northwest corner of the plaza. It features an inset central stairway that leads up to a presumed summit temple structure of perishable material. Excavations have revealed three construction phases. An unusual semi-circular platform was added to the base of the building in the latter half of the Classic Period. Numerous burials were recorded at the base of the platform. Traces of red, black and orange painted stucco have been identified along with three recovered ceramic vessels.

Structure 11 exhibits a stepped, pyramidal platform base that may have supported a temple of perishable material. It is the larger of the three buildings, and has received some excavation and restoration. At some point, the entire plaza-facing façade was removed including the central stairway. Two smaller stairways flank the center of the structure. Decorated stucco and mask fragments were recovered, typical of the Early Classic.

Structure 12 is a two-tiered basal platform that may have been residential in nature. The structure shows a broad, central stairway, but was heavily dismantled at a later date. An concentration of broken artifacts was recovered from the structure.

A sacbe leads out to the East from the northeast corner of the plaza towards the small archaeological site of Mario Ancona.

Structure 1 is a Preclassic complex that takes up the Northwest area of the Main Plaza, and has massive proportions. Its length runs about 1,181 feet/360 meters along the west side of the Main Plaza. The north side of the platform base is around 656 feet/200 meters. This is almost equal to the surface area of the Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacan that was constructed in 200 CE. The platform base displays sloped walls, while the platform plaza features a huge pyramid whose base measures about 525 feet/160 meters each side. A central stairway on the south side of the pyramid rises to a height of about 115 feet/35 meters with a rectangular temple located on its summit. A range-type structure is located in the southeast corner of the plaza with other smaller mounds located around the plaza. This complex is currently closed to visitors, but is being excavated and prepared for future visitation.

Structure 2, The 5 Brothers, takes up the southwest side of the plaza. This is no slouch being around 656 feet/200 meters in length. The platform base rises up around 15 feet/4.5 meters, and houses five temples. Only one of the temple structures has been excavated.

A pathway between Structures 1 and 2 leads into the West Plaza. The plaza measures 236 feet/72 meters x 440 feet/134 meters. It is surrounded by Structure 2 on the East; Structure 8 to the North; Structure 3 to the West; and Structure 9 to the South, all being mound-covered.

Structure 3 is a radial pyramid with stairways on all four sides. Structures 2 and 3 display the configuration of an astronomical E Complex that was a prevalent architectural feature during the Preclassic.

Structure 8 is a range-type construction. Structure 9 is a small pyramidal platform. A sacbe leads out from the West Plaza 10 miles/16 km to Kinichna/Dzibanche. The exact relationship between these sites is still being researched especially with reference to the origins of the Kaanu’l Dynasty.

There are many other smaller groups that surround the core area and were most likely elite residential compounds. These include the Moras and Cedros Groups to the North; Higueras and Palmas Groups to the East; Chaka and Amapolas Groups to the South; and the Orquiedas Group to the West, among others.

Ichkabal is a work in progress. More excavations and restorations are needed to fulfil its potential to become a great destination. It is still highly recommended for either a morning or afternoon visit.