Dzibanche

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DZIBANCHE - Quintana Roo (Yucatan), Mexico

DESCRIPTION
Dzibanche is an important archaeological zone located north of the ruins of Kohunlich. The name means “writing on wood” in the Yucatec Maya language, and is named for the wooden support beams carved with glyphs found in one of the temples. Some researchers have suggested that the original mane of the site was Kaanu’l, a name also given as the dynastic lineage that ruled there.

The site is spread out over 7.7 sq. miles/20 sq. kms, though the core area is much smaller and easily visited. Its peak population has been estimated at 40,000 inhabitants. Dzibanche dates from the Middle Preclassic period (850–400 BCE) through the Late Post Classic (1100-1450 CE).

It has been tentatively established that this was the original location of the mighty Kaan Kingdom later located at the huge site of Calakmul. The ongoing archaeological work at the large preclassic site of Ichkabal located 6.75 miles/10.85 km to the northeast however, may impact current understanding on the origins of the Kaanu’l Dynasty.

There are four main groups associated with the site, two of which are open to the public. This site is rarely visited and you may have the place to yourself. The sub-tropical rain forest is quite dense here. Monkeys pass overhead and break small branches to drop down on you. You’re in their territory after all. But they are otherwise harmless. Toucans and other birds fill the air with sound while others silently glide among the trees. A visitor kiosk is located at the intersection before the site on the right-hand side. It is not clearly marked, so watch for it.

If you visit here in March, please drive slowly on the road to the site. The area is filled with thousands of iridescent blue butterflies migrating across the fields and road. Step out of your car and be surrounded. It’s quite an experience.

Dzibanche is located off Highway 186 about 52 miles/83 km west of Chetumal. Turn north at kilometer 58 towards the town of Morocoy. The site is past the town, about 16 miles/25 kms from the Highway 186 turnoff.

HOURS: 9 A.M-3 P.M
ENTRANCE FEE: U.S. $4.80/80 Pesos. Your admission ticket from Kohunlich might allow entrance. There is also an additional charge for video cameras.
GUIDES: Yes, inquire at visitor kiosk for current rates
SERVICES: Bathrooms
ON-SITE MUSEUM: No
ACCOMMODATIONS: Lodging can be found in Chetumal or Xpujil.
GPS: 18d 38' 19" N, 88d 45' 35" W
MISC: Please note- The local ejido began collecting a separate fee using a rope barricade March 2024. Unclear if it is still in force.

HISTORY AND EXPLORATION
Ceramic evidence indicates a settlement dating back to the Middle Preclassic period (850–400 BCE). The known history of the site begins with the Kaanu’l Dynasty which was among the most powerful kingdoms in the Maya World. Recent research (2024) has identified a hierarchy within the Kannu’l royal family with lesser lords/princes being identified in the monumental inscriptions, some of them carrying the Kuhl Ajaw title though not in rulership.

The erection of monumental building structures commenced in the Late Preclassic (300 BCE-250 CE) evincing a Peten influence in its early development.

A strong relationship with Teotihuacan has also been suggested due to the site’s Early Classic (250-400 CE) architecture, burial goods, and iconographic imagery. The “Entrada” by the imposing historical figure of Siyaj K’ahk’ in 378 CE to Tikal initiated a tsunami of regime changes, along with new kingdoms, throughout the Maya World, though no direct connection has been established yet to that great warrior-statesman at Dzibanche.

The Temple of the Captives exhibits a hieroglyphic stairway with intricately carved risers of captives and text. One of the risers contains a Snakehead emblem glyph associated with the Kaanu’l Dynasty and dates to either 404 or 464 CE. It is the discovery of this glyph block that has led researchers to believe that Dzibanche was the early capital of the Kaanu’l Dynasty. Other risers identify an early ruler of Dzibanche named Yuhkno’m Ch’een I, and place him in the early 5th century (ruled c.402-c.455 CE).

Three lintel support beams were discovered within the Temple of the Lintels displaying a glyphic text commemorating a Katun Ending of 9.6.0.0.0-9 Ajaw 3 Wayab, March 22, 554 CE, which equates with the Spring Equinox. It also mentions an accession to rulership in 9.5.16.0.8-7 Lamat 5 Uo, April 18, 550 CE, and is thought to reference K'ahk’ Ti’ Ch'ich’ Aj Saakil, the very notable 16th ruler of Dzibanche who ruled 550-c.568 CE.

Dzibanche/Calakmul and Tikal were the two great ‘Superpowers’ of their day. They were in constant rivalry with each other resulting in numerous victories and defeats between themselves and their respective allies. A ruler known as Yuhkno’m Uht Chan, aka Sky Witness, reigned c.561-572 CE. It was during his reign in 562 CE that Tikal was thoroughly defeated resulting in its long hiatus, though his actions may have been overseen by K'ahk’ Ti’ Ch'ich’ Aj Saakil. His elaborately furnished tomb is located within the Pyramid of the Cormorants.

Another ruler, Yax Yopaat (ruled c.573-579 CE), is mentioned on a recovered glyph block celebrating a Katun Ending in 9.7.0.0.0 7 Ahau 3 Kankin, December 7, 573 CE.

During the mid-6th century, the kings of Dzibanche had established themselves as overlords at Uaxactun, La Corona, Chochkitam, Naranjo, and El Peru/Waka, along with other lesser kingdoms, through either marriage or warfare. The Kaanu’l kings styled themselves with the highest ranking title of “kaloomte’’’, and first used by K’ahk’ Ti’ Ch’ich’ Aj Saakil (ruled 550-c.568 CE), a title that was once associated with the great Siyaj K’ahk himself.

Beginning in the early 7th century the city experienced a succession of short-reigning Kaanu'l kings inaugurating a turbulent period. It appears that a schism elevated into a civil war between the various dynastic lineages for rulership rights. Recent epigraphic reanalysis of texts, newly discovered monuments, and the discovery in 2024 of a platform frieze in the Tutil Complex has helped to clarify some of the murky details of the events following the death of Uneh Chan/Scroll Serpent (ruled 579-611 CE).

The last of these short-reigning kings was Waxaklajuun Ubaah Chan (ruled 630-636 CE). A competing lineage led by an individual known as Yukoom Head defeated this king and was installed as Yuknoom Chʼeen II in 636 CE though it is still not certain if they were one in the same person. Waxaklajuun Ubaah Chan’s violent death occurred in 640 CE putting an end to the conflict.

Soon therafter, during the long reign of Yuknoom Chʼeen II (636-686 CE), the dynastic seat was moved and established at Calakmul. The exact arrival date and circumstances of the relocation event are still under investigation though it has been suggested that Yuknoom Chʼeen II early on acted in concert with the ruling Bat Dynasty of that city that was then subsequently subsumed. He led victorious campaigns against Tikal in 657 CE and 677 CE.

Dzibanche however, continued on and apparently thrived. A ruler, Ajxib'saaj Chan K'inich, has been identified through text fragments in the Pom Plaza incorporating the Kaanu’l Ajaw title glyph and is thought to have reigned after the departure of Yuknoom Chʼeen II to Calakmul.

Another late ruler, B'alun Pet Usa', has been identified from Misc. Fragment 1, which has been tentatively dated to 695 CE.

The latest date associated with Dzibanche is on a jade pendant recovered from the Kinichna Group exhibiting a very late glyphic text recording a date of 909 CE. The site experienced a reduced population by 1200 CE and was possibly still occupied at the time of the arrival of the Spanish.

The area was first reported on by Thomas Gann in 1927. Peter Harrison included the site in a regional survey in 1972-74. In 1987 INAH archaeologist Enrique Nalda began extensive excavations and consolidations of the structures. Work has been ongoing with recent discoveries announced.

STRUCTURES
There are four main groups associated with the site, and spread out over an area measuring 7.7 square miles/20 km squared. The groups are named Dzibanche, Kinichna, Tutil, and Lamay. Only Dzibanche and Kinichna are open to the public, though the Lamay Group can be seen among the trees on the left-hand side of the road on the way to Dzibanche. These groups are linked by sacbeob, raised white stone causeways. Other sacbeob extend outward to possible satellite centers such as Pol Box 7.5 miles/12 km to the south, Ichkabal 6.8 miles/11 km to the northeast, and further on to Mario Ancona 19.3 miles/15 km.

Within and around the site core are several reservoirs, the largest being the Aguada de los Patos next to the Dzibanche Group. The prominent Cerro de la Tortuga is situated between Dzibanche and Ichkabal.

The Dzibanche Group contains the most important civic and ceremonial structures of the site. They are set on an east/west axis about 16 degrees east of North. There are several plazas of which three are currently open to the public.

The first structure seen when entering the site is Structure 6, the Temple of the Lintels. It set slightly to the north of Gann Plaza. The structure is of a four-tiered pyramidal platform having a broad, west-facing stairway leading to the summit. The summit houses a masonry temple structure consisting of twin bays. It is within this structure that the three carved support lintels were located.

The pyramid base displays an architectural style reminiscent of the great Central Mexican capital of Teotihuacan. A tomb containing a rich offering was located within the pyramid and is thought to be that of an early ruler.

The Gann Plaza is named after the well-known archaeologist, Thomas Gann, who first reported on the site in 1927. This plaza is situated on level ground, and is dated from the Late to the Terminal Classic (600-1150 CE). The main structure is located on the east side, and is known as the Temple of the Cormorants. This is the highest pyramid at the site at 111.5 feet/34 meters, and features Teotihuacan talud-tablero architecture along with certain characteristics of the Rio Bec style. A number of friezes are associated with this structure. This multi-tiered temple-pyramid houses a superstructure of masonry construction. An impressive central stairway leads from the plaza level to the summit temple. Three entrances to the multi-chambered temple are divided between two pilasters.

Several elaborate tombs were located within the pyramid base. Chamber 6, was found to hold the remains of the ruler Yuhkno’m Uht Chan/Sky Witness (ruled c.561-572). The items recovered from the tomb included three jadeite mosaic masks with obsidian and shell inlay, an impressive multi-piece jade breastplate, and several ceramics. An inscribed bloodletter was discovered upon the pelvis of the ruler’s skeleton helping to identify him.

The Chamber 2 tomb’s contents included a jade mosaic mask, jade and shell necklaces, ceramic vases, and 11 obsidian blades. Chamber 4 included among its funerary offerings of jade beads, jade earspools, a jade mosaic mask, and a ceramic vase decorated in the style of a bird that gives the temple its name.

The Temple of the Captives is located on the west side of the Plaza. This building, Structure 13, is an elongated, three-tiered platform base crowned with a temple containing three chambers.

Large, carved stone risers form a central, hieroglyphic stairway, and may have been re-erected here from an earlier structure. Each block features a bound captive and text. Two of the risers identify a Dzibanche ruler as Yuhkno’m Ch’en I, and one of the captives is named Yax K’ahk’ Jolo’m, possibly from El Resbalon. It is here where one of the risers contains the Snakehead emblem glyph associated with the Kaanu’l Dynasty and dates to 404/464 CE. Most of the steps have been removed for preservation or museum display.

Behind the Temple of the Captives is a small plaza ringed with structures. Just to the north is the large Plaza Harrison incorporating three main structures. These areas are not open to visitors.

Southwest of the Temple of the Captives is a complex that houses two ball courts, and a structure identified as a market place.

Ballcourt 2 features a frieze that wraps around a substructure that has recently been fully uncovered and conserved. The frieze displays three mythological scenes molded in stucco of warriors, ancestral figures, a glyphic pedestal base, and intertwined serpents with traces of blue, green, red and black paint. The central figures had been defaced in antiquity, a testimony to the internal civil strife experienced at the site. This area is closed to the public.

The north side of the Gann Plaza houses Structure 16, Temple of the Toucans. This building is set on a platform base exhibiting a superstructure of masonry chambers. A central stairway leads down to the plaza level. The south side of the plaza is taken up by Structures 10 and 11.

Structure 11 is a large, low platform base surmounted by a range type masonry building having a number of chambers entered through four pilasters. There are some additional foundations at the plaza level, and at the rear of the structure. Structure 10 is an unrestored mound.

The backside of the Temple of the Cormorants faces onto a raised plaza, the Xibalba Plaza. It is accessed from a stairway on the northwest side of that structure. The Temple of the Owl, Structure I, is the main structure of this plaza group. It is an imposing pyramid featuring Peten and Rio Bec style architecture. A broad, central stairway leads up to a multi-chambered temple.

Within the Temple of the Owl a tomb of a high-ranking female dating to the 5th century was located via interior stairways similar to that seen at Palenque’s Temple of the Inscriptions. A rich array of funerary objects, including some Teotihuacan-style ceramics, indicate the importance of the tomb occupant. Other funerary items found in this tomb include a rare alabaster bowl featuring a monkey, and a carved shell depicting a ruler holding a scepter inlaid with jade, black coral, and pyrite. Jade and shell jewelry including necklaces and ear spools were also found along with 14 green obsidian blades, and a number of lidded ceramic vessels, including one that has given the temple its name. Many of these items are now on display at the Museo Maya, a must-see while in Cancun.

On the north and south sides of the plaza are palace structures set upon high platform bases. Each structure contains two parallel bays, and is accessed through nine doors in a possible reference to the nine levels of the Underworld.

Behind the Temple of the Owl is a small plaza. On the east side of this plaza is a large complex known as the Small Acropolis This complex underwent excavation and consolidation during the 2003-2009 field seasons. It dates from the Late Classic (600-900 CE), and was the main center of occupation into the Post Classic.

The complex is set on a high platform base and resembles an open ‘C’, and features two levels containing four structures, Structures E1-4, on the upper level. A broad stairway leads up to the first level terrace. Three secondary stairways then proceed to the second level.

The main structure, Structure E1 is set at the back of the platform and measures about 164 feet/50 meters in length with a width of about 33 feet/10 meters. It is divided down the center by interspersed walls forming two long galleries. The building is entered between pilasters that form nine entrances, perhaps alluding to the nine levels of the Underworld.

Structures E2 and E3 flank Structure E1 on the north and south sides of the terrace, and have their own side staircases. Structure 4 is located at the top of the central staircase and acts as a portico for Structure 1.

An interesting discovery of a sky band and the remains of stucco decoration were identified within some of the structures. Graffiti dated to the Post Classic has been identified on the walls of the structures depicting figures, animals and buildings. The complex has been associated with a civic as opposed to a residential use.

A very large deposit of numerous items has been recovered from the Small Acropolis excavations. Late Classic through Post Classic ceramics have been found, along with a large number of effigy censers in the Mayapan style. Surprisingly, copper bells and rings, and ornaments of tumbaga and gold have been recovered. Flint and obsidian knives, jade beads and carved shell have also been identified. Evidently in the Late and Post Classic periods Dzibanche was still well connected to the numerous trade networks, both coastal and inland. Interestingly, a partial mold of a copper bell was recovered which may indicate local production though further investigation is warranted.

To the north of the Small Acropolis are three plazas, the Pom Plaza, Plaza Norte, and the Plaza Oriente each housing numerous structures. These areas are considered to have been elite residential compounds.

The Pom Plaza is surrounded by several buildings. The South Building has been restored and is thought to have been the residence of the ruling dynasty in the Late/Post Classic after the division of the dynasty in the early 7th century.

The Kinichna Group is located back near the visitor kiosk and down a side road. The main structure is a monumental platform base containing an acropolis situated on three levels. It has an impressive Early Classic triadic structure bult over an earlier Preclassic structure. The complex is on a true north/south axis opposed to the rest of the site, and has a height of around 111.5 feet/34 meters.

A broad central stairway leads up to a small plaza. Two platform temple structures are on the east and west sides of the plaza and face to the south. A second stairway rises up to a second level terrace that exhibits a triadic arrangement of structures with a final stairway leading up to the main central temple of the triadic group, the Jaguar Temple.

Two royal burials were located within this structure. The main burial has been dated to c.400 CE, and holds two males, and the remains of a jaguar, a symbol of royalty. The accompanying funerary items included a finely crafted jade mosaic mask, a Teotihuacan-style jade figurine head, numerous jade/greenstone and shell necklaces and bracelets, and several ceramics among other items.

The rear of this structure displays a large stucco Kin/Sun sign which gives the group its name, the House of the Sun. Well worth the short drive.

The Lamay group is closed to the public. It is located about .7 miles/1.1 km northwest of the Dzibanche Group. The main structure is a large, high platform base featuring several multi-chambered buildings, with the main building dividing the others between two terraces.

The Tutil Group is located slightly farther to the west of the Lamay Group. Its main structure, the Temple of the Paired Pilasters, shows a distinct Rio Bec style architecture. The Western Aguada, a very large reservoir measuring 13.3 acres/5.4 ha, is associated with this group.

Recent 2024 investigations have fully uncovered a frieze in Tutil Structure 2, exhibiting a stucco relief that features the Teotihuacan Storm/Puma deity holding torches. The central figure had been defaced, again showing the internal conflict that engulfed Dzibanche during the royal dynastic conflict.

Investigations and excavations are finally beginning to unlock the secrets of the Kaanu’l Dynasty, its early relationship with Calakmul, and a deeper understanding of Dzibanche’s place in history.